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Simple Soil Tests You Can Do At Home

By   /  May 28, 2018  /  Comments Off on Simple Soil Tests You Can Do At Home

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Thanks to Nick Comerford, University of Florida, and the Soil Science Society of America for this article! We first ran it in May of 2017. We thought it went well with this week’s article “Bury Your Briefs: Discover the Keys to Soil Health “Tighty Whitey” Style.” It’s something you can do if you don’t feel like giving up any of your underwear. Enjoy! (And let us know if you do some testing!)

You can order your litmus pH test strips kit here. 🙂

If you are outside and want to know something about the soil you are working with, and don’t have any fancy equipment, then this is for you. With a little bit of experience you can get an idea of how much organic matter you have in your soil, how much clay you have, and how acidic or basic your soil is. The equipment you need is: 1) your eyes; 2) your hands; 3) a little water; and 4) a piece of pH litmus paper (never leave home without it).

Darker soil near the top (grass) has more organic matter in it, which makes the soil dark brown. Credit: NRCS

Organic matter

Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients, the source of energy for soil organisms, and a sponge for holding water in the soil. To know something about soil organic matter, just look at the color of the soil. You can’t be quantitative when estimating organic matter in the field if all you have is the color, but you can tell if you have a lot or a little. Organic matter makes the soil dark brown to black; the darker the soil, the more organic matter. For example, if your soil is reddish or light brown, it doesn’t have much organic matter. If your soil is dark black then it has an abundant amount.

Put a shovel in the ground and dig a hole to about 1 foot or more (after calling Digger’s Hotline!).  At the surface of the soil, you will see the darkest colors. This is typically where the greatest amount of organic matter is found. As you go deeper, the color becomes lighter, meaning that the amount of organic matter is decreasing. Dig until the background color becomes as light as it seems to get. Since the dark color comes from organic matter, compare the color in the surface to the natural soil color you’ve found. In most cases a depth of about a foot will show you the base color – and you can compare your upper layer colors from there. It would be nice to have around 6 inches or more of dark color. If you do not have a dark color, you’ll want to add compost or peat to your soil before planting.

Clay

You probably did this as a child. What we want to measure is called soil texture. Another way of saying this is how much sand, silt and clay is in my soil? For your garden, you want a good distribution of sand, silt and clay. Each brings desirable properties to the soil. The sand helps the water drain through the soil. Clay (along with organic matter) is the “bioreactor” of the soil, as it holds water and nutrients. Silt is very fine particulate matter (think baby powder/talcum powder). The field method for estimating soil clay is based on the fact that clay gives the soil a sticky, cohesive property, while sand does not. You will need to add water to about 3 tablespoons of soil in your hand until the soil can be ‘molded’. Move the mixture in your palm to see if it will form a ball. If it does not, your soil is sandy. Depending on the amount of organic matter in the soil, it will not hold sufficient water for your garden.  Adding organic matter will help (see above about organic matter). If it does form a ball, see how far you can make a soil “ribbon” by squeezing it between your thumb and forefinger. The more clay you have in your soil, the longer will be the ribbon you can form. A soil with the best physical properties for your garden will form a ribbon 1 to 2 inches long.  The more sand you have (the shorter the ribbon) the more organic matter you may want to add. To follow more detailed instructions for determining soil texture – like soil scientists do in the field, click here.

Making a soil “ribbon” is a good way to tell what types of soil particles are in your garden – and give you an idea of whether you need to add compost or other materials. Photo: SVFisk

Soil pH

Testing your soil pH can lead to higher yields for your vegetables! Credit: SVFisk

Soil pH tells you how acidic or basic your soil is. The pH scale is a chemical term. A pH of 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic, and above 7 is basic. Soils can range from a pH of about 4.0 to 8.6 or higher. Most plants prefer a pH in the range of 5.5 to 6.5, or a bit on the acidic side. Soil pH is important because it determines the environment for soil organisms and the availability of plant nutrients. All plants don’t want the same pH. Some like a very acid soil (blueberries for example) but some don’t. You measure pH in the field with pH litmus paper (purchase at any major retail store). Put some soil in a 6 ounce cup or baggie. Add distilled water until the soil is a paste. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so. Tilt the cup or baggie to the side, allowing some water to drain to the side. Dip in a piece of litmus paper. Compare the color on the paper with the chart provided with your litmus paper to determine your pH.

Comparing your pH strip to the guide included in your kit will tell you if your soil is neutral, acidic or basic. Shown – a fairly neutral, pH 7, soil. Credit: SVFisk

These simple at-home tests give you valuable knowledge about your soil. If you’d like to learn more, check in with your local Natural Resources Conservation Service office, or find a local extension agent or conservation district. These folks’ whole job is helping you be a successful farmer or rancher!

Thanks to the National Grazing Lands Coalition for making this article possible.

The 7th National Grazing Lands Conference is coming up in December and it’s one of On Pasture’s favorites. One of the things that makes it so great is that folks just like you are the speakers, sharing their great experiences. Learn more about how to be a speaker here. And learn more about the event here.

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About the author

Publisher, Editor and Author

Kathy worked with the Bureau of Land Management for 12 years before founding Livestock for Landscapes in 2004. Her twelve years at the agency allowed her to pursue her goal of helping communities find ways to live profitably AND sustainably in their environment. She has been researching and working with livestock as a land management tool for over a decade. When she's not helping farmers, ranchers and land managers on-site, she writes articles, and books, and edits videos to help others turn their livestock into landscape managers.

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