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Use Good Stop Grazing Heights For Animal and Soil Health and More Spring Forage

It is late September as I write this, and so far this month I’ve had a total of two-fifths of an inch of rain up until today. Some oats and turnips I planted over three weeks ago have barely broke ground. They won’t provide much grazing at this rate. Sadly, there are areas of Indiana that are in even worse shape moisture wise, especially parts of the northeast. That area has suffered from lack of sufficient rainfall most of the summer and those areas with gravelly outwash subsoils and sandy loam topsoil have suffered the worst.

If you have been diligent about maintaining cover and not overgrazing this summer then at least you’re doing everything you possibly can do to conserve moisture. I grazed a couple fields just a bit closer than I should have in advance of this dry late summer/early fall period. It was supposed to rain! It didn’t. Fields with closer to six inches of residual left behind bounced back better. I have to remind myself that the next drought period could be only two weeks away and to keep a game plan ready to reduce the negative impact if it occurs.

What could have we have done differently? Sometimes nothing, but for future ruminations here are a few options.

Maintain Soil Cover With Good Stop Grazing Heights

Maintain stop grazing heights to maintain that solar panel and keep plants producing!

You don’t want to see any bare ground and you want a good dense stand of forage and residue to keep the soil cool and reduce evaporation. Maintain good stop grazing heights, you know, the live leaf and stem material that is left behind after a grazing event. That is the shortest amount left, not the tallest. For most cool-season forages, that is four inches so to have the shortest be four inches, there will be at least one third of the forages of at least six inches or more.

Let’s think a bit more about that last statement. That stop grazing height is a good average guide to stick to, but there are always exceptions to the rules. On rare occasions, especially under ideal moisture conditions and with lots of forage present, you can occasionally remove slightly more forage, but it’s generally best not to. Removal of too much leaf area will slow photosynthesis and regrowth, but if only done on rare occasion on only single paddocks or small parts of a pasture, it won’t be too detrimental. If there is a lot of growth present, removal can be misleading due to a fair amount of forage being laid down rather than consumed. If that happens, it may not be consumed by the grazing livestock, but some of it will be consumed by the microflora of the soil livestock and that is never a bad thing they need fed too.

When we are in a period of decreasing moisture, and especially if growth is slowing down, then we need to adjust that stop grazing height, leaving slightly more behind and not grazing as close. Moving livestock after grazing just the top one third of available forage is probably ideal under these conditions instead of the traditional mindset of graze half and leave half. You want to leave slightly more behind for the same reasons we started discussing earlier and if you do so, you will normally keep forages growing a lot longer and be rewarded with a little more production.

Be slow to graze droughty pastures even after they start to rebound; they are already weakened from the conditions so it will be important to try and wait until they are dormant to graze them if possible or risk slower spring growth, reduced yields and potentially increased weed pressure next season. So, if you have corn stalks, hay aftermath or annuals that can be grazed, that may provide you more opportunity to defer those fields longer, and with a little rain possibly grow even more stockpile or feed hay now and graze later after the dust settles.

Stop Grazing Heights Are Good For Your Livestock Too

You may not have been short on forage, or at least it didn’t appear that way, but I like to go back and consider animal bite size.

To start with, how does a cow eat? If she can, she will take her tongue and reach out with it and wrap it around a nice mouthful of forage tearing it off in the process and pulling it into her mouth. To adequately get a full bite, forages need to be at least six inches tall, eight to ten inches or more is better. When forages become less than six inches, the swath of forage becomes increasingly more challenging to tongue-harvest and cows turn into horses and bite off forages rather than graze as they prefer. It is estimated that shifting from tongue harvest to biting harvest can reduce forage intake per bite by two-thirds.

You would think that if they had to take more bites to meet their requirements, they would do so, but that quite often doesn’t happen. Ruminant livestock spend only about one-third of their day grazing, then approximately one-third of the day ruminating and the rest just resting. Sounds like a heck of a life if the buffet isn’t limited!

Smaller ruminants are less impacted by bite size, mainly due to their ability to be more selective in their grazing and/or browsing, but shorter forages for them impact forage diversity and can also certainly impact parasite loads to a degree. Grazing/browsing taller forages is preferred and better.

What Do You Do When Forage Growth Doesn’t Keep Up With Animal Needs?

There are times, especially during droughty periods, when forage growth has slowed down so much that it is no longer keeping up with livestock needs. If you continue to graze, photosynthesis is hampered even more, impacting root growth, and energy stores, and the potential for regrowth can be severely sabotaged. This was very evident after the drought of 2012. But, where forages were not overgrazed or taken below the stop grazing heights and let to sit dormant until rains replenished needed moisture, they rebounded with compensatory growth!

But how do you give pastures rest in those circumstances? You shut the gates and feed hay. That’s easier said than done, but it sure can have a lot of benefits. A better answer is to always have a drought plan in your back pocket, one that considers animal numbers and when and how to reduce them so that you always have enough forage.

Remember, it’s not about maximizing a grazing event, but maximizing a grazing season!

Keep on grazing!


Drought Planning 101 – Because it’s never too early to plan for drought

Proactive, smart grazing management provides healthy soil and plant cover, establishes water systems that work when things go wrong, and ensures livestock that fits your environment. Smart management also means having a plan and implementing it when drought arrives. All this preparation creates resilience you need to see you through hard times.

Drought Planning 101, is your guide to planning for resilience. It draws from our On Pasture community. Dave Pratt of Ranch Management Consultants starts us off with the steps for success. We add to the details with destocking and leasing tips. Then farmers and ranchers from all parts of the country provide examples of how they managed and adapted. Greg Judy brings it all together showing how he grazed through two years of drought. We hope this helps you become a drought-proof, resilient grazier.

To download your free drought planning ebook, just head over here. And remember – On Pasture can only provide these services when readers help cover costs. So if this is helpful to you please consider donating to keep On Pasture online.

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Victor Shelton
Victor Shelton
For more than 25 years, Victor Shelton, Indiana agronomist and grazing specialist with the Natural Resources Conservation Service, has provided advice about grazing’s best practices. He travels across the state conducting pasture walks, working one on one with farmers and participating in grazing talks. He also writes a newsletter called "Grazing Bites" as a way to talk about current and seasonal grazing issues and what farmers need to be prepared for.


  1. Hello Victor.
    I really enjoy your articles. I have a question.

    Often times as I rotate cattle it seems that no matter how quick I do it, I am unable to leave 6”. They will go for the clover and blue grass and eat it down very low. Any advise on what to do differently?

    Thank you very much.

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