Temporary Perimeter Fencing

Over the six years I’ve been raising cattle, I have built 33,000 feet of perimeter high-tensile electric fence, all by hand, with minimal equipment and my Dad's help. I work on leased land, so I nee

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11 thoughts on “Temporary Perimeter Fencing

  1. I’ve made gates with 2 peices of 7/8″ fiberglass and some polywire. I built the gates on the old barbed-wire scissor gate model with modern materials. Works great. But your style is probably even a bit less expensive than mine…

    1. That design works well too. Greg Judy has a bunch of those types of gates.

  2. Hi Meg, what length of fiber glass posts are you using? Do you have any comments on them vs the Pasture Pro posts (both at Kencove)?

    1. My line posts are 6 feet long. 3.5 feet above ground, 2.5 feet below ground. I tried the PasturePro posts a while back, and found them too flexible. They required a pilot hole to get them in the ground because they bent under the impact of a hand driver. It was hard to get them driven straight because of the excessive flex. I like the rigidity of solid fiberglass.

  3. Gate construction comes after the fence lines are complete. My gates are three strands of high-tensile with spring hook handles. This type of gate is much less expensive than a metal tube gate, and is also electrified when closed. I connect three loops of wire to the hot fence line for the gate handles to hook to. I do not connect the actual gate wires to power. This makes the gate hot when hooked up, but dead when it is open and laid on the ground. Can you post a picture of the gate?

  4. The floating angle brace is my favorite of all braces. A common mistake in angle bracing is to put the brace on too steep an angle. A 2 to 1 ratio triangle (at least twice as long on the ground as height on the post) of the brace transfers the pull to the ground. A steeper angle such as 1 to 1 or 45 degrees acts as a fulcrum and pries the end post out of the ground. The pictured wood post should still hold all wires great if the brace were dropped appropriately. Even T posts will hold well for 1 or 2 wire fences if braced just below the pull of the top wire. And they are especially useful on rented ground that may need to be removed some day.

  5. A small piece of flat strap about 4 inches long with a hole slightly bigger than a ground rod on one end, and a hole for a small clevis to hook to a chain works well to pull ground rods. Hook the chain to your post puller and slid the strap down the ground rod as it comes out of the ground.

  6. I have pulled ground rods with a post puller. Takes a pair of hands with a pair of pliers on top with a pair of hands and post puller under the pliers. I hate to leave anything in the ground which doesn’t belong there.

    Loved your article. One of the most informative and easy to understand articles on hot wire fence I’ve ever read. I’ve been stumped by gates but now I clearly understand what I need to do.

    Thank you!

  7. How far apart is the spacing of your fiberglass line posts?
    Thank you for the informative article.

    1. On flat areas I go 40 feet, but where there’s ups and downs, posts need to be closer together. On spots that aren’t flat, I put posts wherever I need to in order to keep the bottom wire a set distance off the ground. For cattle I use three wires. My super scientific way to measure wire spacing: knee height, hip height, bust height. I am 5 ft 6 for reference.

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