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Temporary Perimeter Fencing

By   /  April 8, 2019  /  11 Comments

Perimeter fencing is an important part of a rotational grazing system, and if, like a high tensile fence it’s also electrified, it makes it easier to set up paddocks and move livestock. Here’s the last in our series on setting up high tensile fence. (This piece was updated on 4/16/2019 with additional photos of gate set up.)

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Over the six years I’ve been raising cattle, I have built 33,000 feet of perimeter high-tensile el
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About the author

I graduated from West Virginia University in 2012 with a degree in livestock management, and a minor in agribusiness. While at WVU, I won a statewide entrepreneurship competition with a patentable device I designed for video-assisted cattle artificial insemination. I then spent six months interning for grazing expert Greg Judy in Missouri. Now I run Rhinestone Cattle Consulting, helping new and experienced farmers build profitable mob grazing beef operations. I offer artificial insemination, electric fence building and graphic design services too. I'll travel anywhere in the 48 states for on-farm consulting and speaking at conferences.


  1. Edmund Brown says:

    I’ve made gates with 2 peices of 7/8″ fiberglass and some polywire. I built the gates on the old barbed-wire scissor gate model with modern materials. Works great. But your style is probably even a bit less expensive than mine…

  2. Stanley Musielezjcziewicz says:

    Love your polish last name!!

  3. David Banbury says:

    Hi Meg, what length of fiber glass posts are you using? Do you have any comments on them vs the Pasture Pro posts (both at Kencove)?

    • My line posts are 6 feet long. 3.5 feet above ground, 2.5 feet below ground. I tried the PasturePro posts a while back, and found them too flexible. They required a pilot hole to get them in the ground because they bent under the impact of a hand driver. It was hard to get them driven straight because of the excessive flex. I like the rigidity of solid fiberglass.

  4. Matt says:

    Gate construction comes after the fence lines are complete. My gates are three strands of high-tensile with spring hook handles. This type of gate is much less expensive than a metal tube gate, and is also electrified when closed. I connect three loops of wire to the hot fence line for the gate handles to hook to. I do not connect the actual gate wires to power. This makes the gate hot when hooked up, but dead when it is open and laid on the ground. Can you post a picture of the gate?

  5. Myron Hartzell says:

    The floating angle brace is my favorite of all braces. A common mistake in angle bracing is to put the brace on too steep an angle. A 2 to 1 ratio triangle (at least twice as long on the ground as height on the post) of the brace transfers the pull to the ground. A steeper angle such as 1 to 1 or 45 degrees acts as a fulcrum and pries the end post out of the ground. The pictured wood post should still hold all wires great if the brace were dropped appropriately. Even T posts will hold well for 1 or 2 wire fences if braced just below the pull of the top wire. And they are especially useful on rented ground that may need to be removed some day.

  6. Toby Holsted says:

    A small piece of flat strap about 4 inches long with a hole slightly bigger than a ground rod on one end, and a hole for a small clevis to hook to a chain works well to pull ground rods. Hook the chain to your post puller and slid the strap down the ground rod as it comes out of the ground.

  7. Chad Fisher says:

    I have pulled ground rods with a post puller. Takes a pair of hands with a pair of pliers on top with a pair of hands and post puller under the pliers. I hate to leave anything in the ground which doesn’t belong there.

    Loved your article. One of the most informative and easy to understand articles on hot wire fence I’ve ever read. I’ve been stumped by gates but now I clearly understand what I need to do.

    Thank you!

  8. James Eldridge says:

    How far apart is the spacing of your fiberglass line posts?
    Thank you for the informative article.

    • On flat areas I go 40 feet, but where there’s ups and downs, posts need to be closer together. On spots that aren’t flat, I put posts wherever I need to in order to keep the bottom wire a set distance off the ground. For cattle I use three wires. My super scientific way to measure wire spacing: knee height, hip height, bust height. I am 5 ft 6 for reference.

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