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How much feed can Honey Locust add to your stockpile?

By   /  February 15, 2021  /  9 Comments

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“The tree grows in a Bermuda pasture and is always loaded in the fall with luscious fruit. The co
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About the author

Austin started Crow & Berry Land Management (CrowAndBerry.com) in 2017 with the goal of helping landowners do conservation that was also profitable. He started with streamside buffers in southeastern Pennsylvania, and when a client asked how to plant trees in his pastures, Austin started down a rabbit hole that just keeps getting longer and longer. TreesForGraziers.com and his current work in silvopasture is the outworking of that journey. When not planting trees he's probably reading about trees, though he's learned to avoid good tree books right before bed, or he'll lay awake half the night thinking. If not reading about trees, a good afternoon is swimming in the pond and eating wild berries with his growing family.


  1. Anthony says:

    Honeylocust are awesome trees. We’ve planted some, left wild ones along and will plant more along with persimmons.

  2. Annie Basehore says:

    Great info. AMAZING feed yields. Thanks. I am curious about creating a living fence/hedge row with honey locust. Any thoughts to share on this ponder?

    • Austin Unruh says:

      Hi Annie,

      They should do fantastic in that role. I’d direct-seed them a few inches apart. You could go to Sheffield Seed and buy the seed you need. Might as well get the standard thorny stuff if you want a really strong fence. Or you can get the thornless seed (look for the word ‘inermis’, which means thornless). Even so you’ll get a certain percentage with thorns, just to be aware.

  3. Bill Beaman says:

    Are you talking about thornless honey locust trees?

    • Anthony says:

      Milwood mentioned is thornless. I have thornless Hersey and Calhoune. The ones you want have high yields and no or few thorns. There are thornless ornamental types widely cultivated but they have a low pod yield. I’ve got several wild ones I let grow around the pasture as well because of their high yield. I know they’re a tractor risk but I either transplant, dig up or graft to any seedlings I find.

    • Austin Unruh says:

      I fully agree with Anthony’s comment. One thing to note is that grafted trees are thornless, because the graft material is taken from upper, mature parts of the tree. Since the tree only produces thorns on the lower, younger parts of the tree (a defense mechanism against large herbivores), the upper sections genetically no longer produce thorns. It’s a nice little biology trick.

      So when you grow trees from seed, some number will have thorns on them. I’ve yet to find a source that’s 100% thornless. But you can graft on to a thorny tree, and it will become completely thorness. If you graft on a high-yielding variety (Calhoun, Hershey, Millwood, etc) you’ll get high yields of good pods as well.

  4. Denny Oelschlager says:

    How well do honey locust trees handle deer scrapes?

    • Anthony says:

      Mine have survived the brush hog. They usually come back. Deer scrapes could cause them to send out new shoots from the roots. I’ve never seen a deer scrape on most. I have had issues with deer eating the leaves from short trees. They LOVE the leaves. I keep them in a 5′ tree tube until they’re taller.

    • Austin Unruh says:

      These trees are tough as nails. I’ve seen one seedling survive being in the middle of a portable pig pen for a week, with the pigs rolling all over it. Even still I usually start all my trees in a 6′ tree shelter if protecting against cattle, 5′ if only deer or sheep. That’ll give them the good boost to get started, and protect them from herbivores.

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