Egg Production: What You Need to Do and Charge to Make It Pay

I adore eggs, the way they look with their different shades of white, off-white, tan, brown, green, and

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10 thoughts on “Egg Production: What You Need to Do and Charge to Make It Pay

  1. Not sure why you recommend washing and refrigerating eggs which both adds to the cost and detracts from the flavor. It’s my understanding that chickens lay eggs with an effective anti-bacterial coating so that the chicks inside can survive to hatching in the extremely dirty nest environment. Washing eggs essentially denatures the coating and makes them vulnerable to contamination. An unwashed egg has curb appeal — bits of feather and hay glued on with poop 🙂 — and will last, sitting on the counter, as long as a washed, refrigerated egg.

  2. How accurate is the study that free range chickens produce less eggs than confined chickens. My chickens & eggs are for my own personal use mind you….I have 8 chickens and they produce fantastic on a daily basis even through the winter with about a week break mid February and they are free range.
    They are most definitely earning their keep with their egg production. Thank you for this great article.

  3. wow, my cos per dozen using local certified organic groan is $7.50 per dozen. Fortunately I will sell the eggs via my CSA for $8 a dozen so will be able to make a very small profit. But If I sold for $8 a dozen to he public I would lose money as few would sell at that price

    1. Lucy- you may need to work on getting your feed costs down. If you are paying $7.50/dozen in feed costs alone, perhaps you need to look to purchasing feed in bulk or use more productive hens. I have never heard of anyone having feed costs that high.

  4. I often see the admonition that egg producers need to cull unproductive birds, from old farming books from the 50’s right through to this article. When you have a few hundred birds that all look pretty much identical running around and you are just coming in a few times a day to feed and collect eggs, how do you know which hens are the freeloaders who aren’t paying their way and need to go?

    1. Michael- I would not make sense in flocks that large to figure out bird by bird which ones are more productive. What we did and many other egg producers do is to simply cull out all the birds of a certain age. We generally do that after two lay cycles. We would purchase a different breed or different color bird for each flock, that way we could tell them apart. We also generally ran flocks separately and didn’t mix them, mainly for biosecurity reasons (vaccines wear off). That makes it easy to know how old a flock is and cull the whole thing (or sell them live to people who want a few for their backyard or their soup pot).

    2. My family locked chickens into individual nest boxes ( just one long box with dividers and a board that swing down over opening in the am the chickens where let out and it was checked who laid and recorded on a board. thats how the soup chickens where selected. there was more labor available at the time (eleven families where quartered on the farm as refugees) but very tight feed costs- all was on food stamps and farmers where only allowed to keep small quantities of grain. The eggs where economically pretty important to the operation. not sure how many chickensl coupel hundred maybe?

  5. Pretty realistic figures. The only difference I see from what I’m doing myself is feed cost. Mixing all my own feed I am monetizing my grain and covering all expenses at $.24 cents a pound instead of $.32.

    Also if you can develop a good market for spent hens it can almost cover the cost of raising the pullets.

    1. Harold- I agree. In many places you could get between $10-15 for a spent hen, either live or dressed out. That can cover your replacement pullet costs. But I do know some farmers who live in areas where they lack the population of people who want spent hens, so they struggle to sell them.

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